Trends: What’s the story with food media?

Front-page coverage made sense. Organic foods in the United States had grown into a multi-billion-dollar-a-year industry, and sales increases were and still are significantly outpacing those for chemically grown foods (around 17 percent for organics and 2 to 3 percent for conventional foods). But it made sense for another reason. The Food editor had been directed by superiors: “We expect food ‘news' for 1A. Produce it.” And the U.S. government standardizing what for decades had been, at best, ad hoc labeling certainly was at least that —news for a significant number of consumers.

Following the afternoon meeting to decide what stories would appear where in the next day's paper, the e-mail came: “[The executive editor] didn't go for it. She doesn't think this is news. The story is coming back to you.”

A mistake? No doubt. The reality? Of course. “Food” in U.S. mainstream media long has been little more than Rockwell-esque comforting mac n' cheese moments, recipe following, and, more recently, restaurant reviews—although health sections have dedicated more ink in recent years to nutrition, particularly as it relates to obesity and diet trends.

Despite food's increasing prominence within and influence upon American culture in recent years, not much as changed within mainstream media outlets in the last decades. Systemic issues—“think” pieces as they're routinely referred to in journalistic circles—largely remain underreported if not unwritten, still misunderstood and underestimated, as represented by that executive editor's decision regarding the organics standards.

There are exceptions, of course. Nearly two decades ago outlets were flooded with coverage of the American farm crisis, documenting the death of family farms and the local businesses reliant upon them. More recently, food recalls and poisonings have garnered bold headlines and major broadcast mention given consolidated slaughter operations have contributed to wider-spread incidents. And controversy within the food chain—such as GMOs and pesticide usage—has and will continue to receive high-profile play. But many of these issues—like a majority in mainstream outlets—receive only short-term and occasional coverage.

The fact remains that mainstream journalism's food coverage historically has been no more sustainable than America 's food system—and current industry trends toward shorter stories and “news you can use” doesn't bode well for a reversal anytime soon.

This poses unique challenges for groups working toward systemic long-term change.

“The news media help set the agenda for what happens in public policy. Until we start seeing more news stories about local food systems, regionally grown foods and other topics, it will be difficult to bring these issues to the policy arena,” says Laura Miller, a communications specialist with the Leopold Center at Iowa State University. “People can relate to food—it's part of their everyday life—but they may not engage in the discussion when it's framed in terms of systems and processes.”

Among those “people” are journalists, few of whom were hired for their deep understanding of food-related issues beyond cooking and entertaining. So pitching appropriate stories to the right person is key.

Give your story a news angle that is meaningful to consumers. Rising fuel prices and the benefits of locally produced food is a great example. The Leopold Center studied food miles in 2001, which resulted in about one or two inquiries every week from reporters, researchers and educators. After Hurricane Katrina and $3-per-gallon gasoline, Miller says, food miles became big news. The Leopold Center now fields an average of one or two inquiries every day on this topic.

And tell the human story behind the issue in photography and words. Studies and data may give rise to a story, but they can't tell it.

And, above all, study the outlets you're hoping to reach.